I was a spice loyalist.
Take Greek seasoning. For years it had been my go-to flavor enhancer for soups, salads, roasted vegetables, pastas, fish, and rich beef stews. It came in a lovely pre-blended jar, a bold mixture of garlic, lemon, oregano, and pepper, and it hit all the right notes. Sure, I had flirtations with berbere and baharat, fajita and enchilada blends, and the occasional lemon pepper rub. But I always came back to Greektown.
But life is short and the world beckons.
Spice up the spice rack with your own custom blend of spices. | Photo by Ruthie Cohen
Sticking with the same blend makes for a rather safe experience. Our palates could use some adventure.
Sometimes you have to shake things up, be less complacent. And not only in your kitchen.
Lured by distant shores and exotic cultures, I’ve begun mixing my own blends. Inspiration is everywhere. Reading Songs for the Brokenhearted by Ayelet Tsabari, a novel about a Yemenite family, I discover hawaij. It is used in soups and stews and in coffee too! As with garam masala, ras el hanout, or curry, families (and restaurants) create their own blends, starting with a spice template, then tweaking and personalizing it.
And so, despite a cabinet crammed with jars of premade concoctions, I choose to tweak the template, too, and create my own version. (Still not sure about the fenugreek, though.)
Hawaij! When you combine black pepper with turmeric, cumin, and cloves, compliant tubers get downright sassy! Eggplants and zucchini perk up as if rising from a long slumber. And don’t even get me started on what it does to onions and garlic. On second thought, do!
[Editor’s note: A previous version of this article had spelled hawaij as hawajj. Both spellings are used, but hawaij seems to be more common.]
YEMENITE HAWAIJ SOUP
Note: This is a vegetarian version, and a very versatile one at that. For a speedy and satisfying alternative, consider using a can of cannellini beans in lieu of potatoes, and reduce cooking time to 30 minutes. For a fuller-bodied rendition, throw in a handful of macaroni or fusilli toward the end of the simmering time and continue to cook until the pasta is done. This soup is often made with stew meat and marrow bones.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, chopped fine
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into thin coins
1 medium potato, peeled and cut into small cubes
2 heaping tablespoons red pepper paste or tomato paste (or a combination of the two)
2 tablespoons hawaij seasoning (see recipe below)
6 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
Pinch of sugar
1 cup fresh, chopped cilantro or parsley (or a combination of the two)
A very versatile, vegetarian version of Yemenite hawaij soup. | Photo by Ruthie Cohen
Pour oil into a large pot. Add chopped onions and sweat them (add a bit of salt) for 5 minutes until they are soft and fragrant. Stir in garlic and sauté for another minute or two. Add the rest of the vegetables along with the red pepper paste and stir to combine. Sprinkle hawaij over mixture.
Add water, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a pinch of sugar. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, with the lid partially covering the pot, for 45 minutes. (For a thicker soup, remove the lid after the boiling phase.) Add the rest of the salt and more if needed.
Remove from heat. Stir in most of the cilantro or parsley, saving a bit for garnish before serving.
HAWAIJ BLEND
Note: You will not need this entire mixture for the soup recipe.
All of the spices can be purchased in their ground or powdered form.
2 tablespoons cumin
1 1/2 tablespoons turmeric
1 1/2 tablespoons black pepper
1 tablespoon coriander
2 teaspoons cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cloves
Put all the spices in a small lidded jar. Give it a good shake.
